We took the 3.30pm train from Malang to Solo which we were told was due in at 11.45pm. It was due at the end of the line at 11.45pm our stop was one before this. We hadn’t gotten off, shite! We were now in Jogyakarta at 12.00pm with a hotel booked 60 kilometres back up the line. As luck would have it we only had to wait till about 1.am to get a train back to our correct stop . The station master kindly organised for us to go back free of charge. Elka luckily was asleep in her buggy, Axel was sitting in a massage chair getting worked over by the contraption, Lisa was talking to some fellow round the world travellers, I drank coffee.
We arrived into Solo at about 2.am and made our way to the Paradiso Inn, where we flaked out an hour later, glad to have a room for the night.
The Paradiso was a very strange hotel, we seemed to be the only guests, or else they were very quiet and gone by the time we got up. We only ever saw the two quiet, nearly mute boys who seemed to be running the place alone and of course the big rat, who I was the only one to see. The two boys had very little english but could be relied upon to do the odd beer run for a few rupees. The hotel itself was down this narrow laneway, the entrance just a door in a high wall with a friendly old rickshaw driver permanently stationed outside seemingly for our own personal use. The hotel cost us about a tenner a night, breakfast not included. Paradiso was a little bit of a misnomer, but it did have some fancy old chandeliers and some very impressive mirrors.
About the only thing we did of any note in and around Solo was go to an old temple complex called Candi Sukuh. I really liked this place. It was very small by some the standards of most temples in Java but it had a really cool vibe. It was neither Bhuddist or Hindu but return to a pre-Hindu animism that existed one and a half thousand years before. It is beautifully positioned on Gunung Lawu overlooking the plain of Solo. I got some wonderfully compromising photos of my wife with one of the fertility statues, anyone wants a copy send me a mail.
In hindsight we could have given Solo a miss and stayed in Jogya .